Совиная мастерская: советы из дупла. Тема вторая.
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С перчатками у меня всю жизнь проблема – они мне все малы в пальцах. Пальцы длинные, рука тонкая, в результате – либо пальцы малы, либо перчатки широки. Я думаю, эта проблема известна многим. И ладно бы обычные повседневные перчатки, так ведь мне они нужны еще и для танцев и балов.
Я много раз слышала, что перчатки люди шьют и это даже не особо сложно. Не верила, пока в декабре не решила попробовать сшить перчатки к моему «Скарлеттовскому» платью.
Начала с того, что прорыла Интернет на предмет выкроек. Выкройки, по которой можно сразу шить, не нашла. Нашла одну.
Распечатала её, повертела так и эдак и поняла, что по такой выкройке надо шить перчатки из кожи. А мне нужны были тряпочные. Порылась еще в Интернете, поспрашивала людей (в частности Симу и Снежку), и поняла, что мне надо делать. А поскольку меня теперь периодически спрашивают, как шить перчатки, то я решила поделиться со всеми этими моими знаниями в данной статье.
Итак, мысль первая: первые свои перчатки лучше всего шить из ХОРОШО ТЯНУЩЕЙСЯ ткани. Когда станете асами, можете шить из чего угодно.
Далее. Как сделать выкройку? Если шьете перчатки на среднего размера дамские руки, то для выкройки хватит листа формата А4. Складываете лист пополам. Кладете на этот лист руку так, чтобы большой палец оказался со стороны сгиба
и обводите ей по контуру (я думаю, многие этим развлекались в детстве). При этом нужно, чтобы пальцы не были прижаты друг к другу и не были растопырены. Они должны находиться в свободном и естественном положении. Кроме того, обводится всё, за исключением большого пальца, который будет выкраиваться отдельно. Далее отмечаете на сгибе точку «А» - верхнее основание пальца и точку «В» - нижнее основание пальца.
После этого можно вырезать выкройку, не разгибая листочек. При этом не забудьте, что сгиб разрезать не нужно. Нужно лишь вырезать выкройку по контуру и вырезать овал на ОДНОЙ стороне выкройки. В результате должно получиться вот что:
Далее рисуете овал по высоте равный «АВ», а по ширине примерно половине «АВ».
Вырезаем овал.
Теперь выкройку можно переносить на ткань. Не забудьте, что у нас есть рука ПРАВАЯ и рука ЛЕВАЯ, то есть нужно выкроить две детали зеркально.
Отдельно выкраивается большой палец. Выкройка большого пальца имеет примерно такой вид:
Линия «CFD» по длине должна совпадать с полной длиной овала, вырезанного на основной детали выкройки.
Далее, поскольку пальцы у нас не плоские, а имеют некий объем, то для пальцев надо выкроить дополнительно ленту (или несколько лент) для пришивания их по внутренним сторонам, где пальцы касаются друг друга, если их друг к другу прижать. Ширина ленты должна быть примерно 0.8 – 1.0 см (а вообще, это зависит от толщины пальцев и припусков на швы, и подбирается по ситуации).
Теперь, собственно шитье. Если вы круты и очень хорошо шьете на машинке очень мелкие детали, то можно всё сшивать на машинке каким-нибудь трикотажным швом. Я лично на такую виртуозность не способна, по сему перчатки шью вручную швом «назад иголку».
Начинать шить удобно с мизинца (хотя можно и с указательного пальца). Если начинаете пришивать от мизинца, то надо предварительно сшить ЧАСТЬ бокового шва перчатки.
Обращаю ваше внимание на то, что весь боковой шов сразу сшивать не стоит, если вы потом планируете как-то украшать край перчатки (например, пришивать к нему кружево).
Можно пришивать единую ленту, а можно делать отдельные ленточки (всего три штуки на каждую перчатку) на промежутках между пальцами. Отдельные ленточки имеет смысл делать, если пальцы тонки. При этом желательно концы ленточек сводить «на нет» на концах пальцев, чтобы кончики пальцев у перчатки не получились толстыми. Если пальцы довольно большие или просто пухлые и ровные от основания до кончиков, можно пришивать единую ленту по всему протяжению от мизинца и до указательного пальца.
После того как вы сошьете все четыре пальца, можно приступать к вшиванию большого пальца. Сначала необходимо сложить деталь вдвое изнаночной стороной наружу, совместив точки «С» и «D», сшить деталь по линии «CE». Затем рекомендую приметать палец к вырезанному под него отверстию, а уже только потом аккуратно пришить швом назад иголку.
После того, как вшили большой палец, можно украсить нижнюю часть перчатки кружевом, либо украсить саму перчатку как-то по-другому. В конце сшить до конца боковой шов и перчатка готова.
На последнем фото мне пришлось сдвинуть край перчатки к кисти, потому что самой фотографировать собственные руки очень неудобно, и вся перчатка в кадр не помещается.
Надеюсь, что мои сумбурные инструкции помогут кому-нибудь освоить пошив перчаток :)
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Большое спасибо за
Большое спасибо за МК.
Сегодня днём рассматривала новые перчатки и размышляла, а не сшить-ли самой
но страшно было решиться.
Зря не пробуете, я знаю не
Зря не пробуете, я знаю не одного и не двух человек, которые не очень давно и не очень много шьют, но этой статье попробовали сшить перчатки и у них всё получилось, и у Вас всё получится, обязательно! Ну и есть только один способ научиться шить - это, собственно, шить.